Trimming Down for the Holidays

The general rule of thumb for working with evening fabrics is: the fancier the pattern and design, the more simple you should select the pattern and silhouette. The problem is...the minimum yardage stores impose on the customer. With few exceptions, most stores insist you buy at least 1/2 yard (50 cm). Unless you are making clothes to sell, this is an enormous amount of fabric which results in my sticking to predictable materials in neutral colors OR....heading to the trim department.

A yard (or meter) of beautifully embroidered trim is all you need to make the most sumptuous outfit. In this case, think "Christmas suit." You can lay out your pattern horizontally so the bottom edge serves as your hem or you can layout the pattern vertically, using the side edge as a border. If the pattern isn't wide enough for your needs, simply sew strips together. Or you can cut away the edges to use as trimming. Just be aware that trim is not really meant to be cut into clothing and as such, has an unstable quality to it. Fray-check just might be your best friend. But if you work carefully, you will be quite thrilled with the results.

For this project, I am using the same basic jacket pattern used for both the Chanel and YSL boxy jacket. Again, the simpler the pattern the better.

This couldn't be easier. Lay your pattern out on the pattern. The width of the trim dictates the maximum length of each element. With this trim, I have decided to use both sides in a positive-negative theme.

I make a pencil skirt using the underside of the trim. I've essentially wrapped a piece around her and pinched in the darts at the back waist. Like this I have only one seam.

I used a basic foundation (or sheath dress) pattern for the top. I could have stopped here, but decided to add a jacket.

For the coat ensemble, my trim was more narrow.

By layering it and sewing the two strips together, I now have the skirt length I wanted. The top and bottom edge of the trim provides a built in border.

For the coat I will use the trim vertically.

I first measure on the doll to see how long I want it to be in relation to the skirt.

2. This trim has a geometrical pattern which I must take into consideration so I mark a point where the pattern of the trim will fall on my coat.
3. I'm cutting out one piece at a time, so I make sure my pattern will always fall on the proper point (including the back).
4. The coat back will have a back seam (due to the narrow width of the trim).

Tip: The trim is quite fragile, so when I am turning the sleeves right side out, I hold the sleeve at the seams and carefully pull the sleeve out using tweezers.

5-6. To finish, I cut away the border from what's left and add to the neckline as well as around the bottom hem of the jacket.
7. I've also added a border to the inside of the "collar" .

If you've planned it well, the pattern should fall at the same spot all around the coat.

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